Tag: Travelogs

Note: This is part two of a two part series. Part one can be read here.

The tour of Changdeokgung Palace had so far covered the entrance gate, the royal throne room, the King’s office, the royal living quarters, and the King’s garage.

View looking towards the royal throne from near the King’s garage.

From the King’s garage the tour group then moved towards the Nakseonjae area of the palace:

The Nakseonjae area of the palace is easily identifiable because of its brown and white coloring:

This coloring is used because these buildings are not considered royal buildings. Only the buildings designated for royalty are painted with bright and vibrant colors. Nakseonjae was built by King Heonjong in 1847 for his concubine Kim Gyeongbin. It stands to reason that King Heonjong must not have been to infatuated with his wife considering he had this entire complex built for a concubine. Even the name Nakseonjae tends to indicate that the King preferred his concubine more than his wife because Nakseonjae literally means the “Mansion of Joy and Goodness”. This probably did not go over to well with his wife which might explain why the King died at age 22 only two years later in 1849.

Nakseonjae had been closed off to the public for decades because it had been used as the residence for the last remaining Korean princesses until 1989 when Princess Deokhye, the youngest daughter of King Gojang, the 26th king of the Joseon Dynasty passed away in 1989. Even after her death Nakseonjae didn’t open to the public until 2006:

I found the colors and design of Nakseonjae to be even better than the royal buildings which in my opinion are too lavish compared to the more naturally eye pleasing colors of Nakseonjae. The inside of the building is all in traditional Korean design:

After visiting Nakseonjae I can understand why the last remaining Korean princess chose to live there until he final days. It is a beautiful home fit for a princess.

From Nakseonjae the tour then moved on to the Biwon or Secret Garden area of the palace. The Secret Garden is where Chosun Dynasty Royalty came to relax, study, and write poems. The most notable feature of the garden is the beautiful lotus pond surrounded with little pavilions and a rock island in the middle of it:

The rock island is supposed to be symbolic of a Taoist hermit. It was easy to imagine a Chosun King sitting on this pavilion overlooking the pond writing poetry:

On the far side of the pond is the Juhamnu royal library:

Juhamnu literally means to “Gather the Universe” and that is what the library tried to do on the first floor by gathering tens of thousands of books and manuscripts. The second floor of the library served as a reading room.

On another side of the lotus pond is a building known as Yeonghwadang:

The Korean government operated a examination system known as Gwageojedo in Korean that determined if people were qualified or not to hold various government offices. The exam was open to the Yangban class too take and required years diligent study to pass. Yeonghwadang is where the government officials sat to administer the test, known as a Jeonsi, to those seeking to pass it. This historic precedent for the importance of education helps explains the drive by Korean parents to this day to ensure their children are properly educated.

From the lotus pond the tour continued to follow a path deeper into the Secret Garden. Along the path was a number of these beautifully colored trees:

Even though it was summer time the trees still had this fantastic colors. These trees leaves remain this color all year long until it sheds its leaves in the winter. Along the trail I also noticed some other random buildings. These buildings housed people that worked in the palace and thus were only allowed to have their houses painted in peasant colors:

The trail continued and we eventually passed underneath a gate that legend claims gives those who pass it everlasting life:

However, the tour guide said it does not work very well because the average age of a Korean King at the time of his death was 38 years old. Pass the gate was more of the brightly colored trees:

The brightly colored trees surrounded another little lotus pond known as Aeryeonji:

Once again it was easy to imagine a Chosun King sitting on this pavilion drinking tea and writing poetry. The path continued pass the lotus pond and into the thickly forested area of the Secret Garden:

Some of the trees in the Secret Garden are hundreds of years old. For example this Chinese juniper is 750 years old:

The tree was planted because Chinese juniper wood was used as incense for royal ancestral rituals. The tour ends shortly after passing the Chinese juniper tree. Overall, I highly recommend a visit the palace, but make sure you budget enough time because the tour takes about 2.5 hours and some of the people in the tour group were quite surprised by its length. Also there is a lot of walking which also took its toll on some people in the group that were older or out of shape. Despite this the palace is still a worthy day trip in Seoul in order to learn little bit about Korean history and architecture plus having a chance to get some fresh air in the heavily forested Secret Garden, which is not something that easy to do in downtown Seoul.

Korea has many great mountain drives for people who love the high peaks of this country to experience.  One of the remotest of those can be found just outside of Soraksan National Park.  If you have a day to spare while visiting the park then I highly recommend you take a drive up the little traveled Highway 56 in Gangwon province.

This country highway spirals up and down than many high peaks of Gangwon province and features a great distant view of Daecheon Peak, the highest of peak of Soraksan National Park.

Along the road you will get a chance to see plenty of wildlife, trees, mountain scenery, and country villages. The villages along this road are so remote that I felt like I was going back into time watching this farmer plow his field with manually with oxen.

This trip is not only a great day trip from Soraksan National Park but is also a great way to travel from Soraksan to Odaesan National Park if this park is also on your itinerary. A back entrance to Odaesan can be reached by turning off at the Odaesan park entrance on highway 446.

Along the way to Mt. Odaesan the rising highway provides incredible views of Korea’s Taebak Mountains:

If you have no plans of visiting Odaesan National Park then just stay on the highway which will eventually allow you to connect to Interstate 50 via highway 31 which will take you back to Seoul.

To get to this highway from Soraksan National Park just travel south on Highway 7 from Sokcho to the city of Yangyang. At Yangyang travel west on Highway 44 for about 10 miles before turning at the intersection on to Highway 56 heading South. It is a great ride that shouldn’t be missed for those already visiting the area.

This weekend I decided to spend it at Soraksan National Park. I am an avid hiker so I was looking forward to hitting the trails. I really like hiking here in Korea not just because of the scenic mountains but also because I always seem to run into interesting people. This hike would be no different.

I started my day at 0430 in the morning and began hiking towards the summit of Sorak mountain, Daecheong Peak, from the Osaek Hot Springs trail head located in the south of the park and from Daecheong Peak I would head to the Sorak-dong Village to meet up with my wife there. She can’t hike big mountains like this because she has a bad knee. The owner of the hotel I stay at everytime I go to Soraksan, the Hyundai Hotel in Osaek drove me to the trailhead that morning. The owner is really nice guy who runs an older hotel but the rooms are clean and only 25,000 won. Plus every room has a tub which can be filled with Osaek’s famous hotspring water. The owner will drive you to the nearby trailheads and give you hiking recommendations and advice if you ask. So if in Osaek I recommend staying at his place.

The trail to Daecheong Peak had just recently reopened due to the fire danger and the damage to the environment by people leaving litter everywhere. The park authorities have put up banners, signs, and flags everywhere around the park warning people not to smoke, cook, or litter while in the park.

It was really good to see the park trying to do something about the littering and smoking problems in the park because it would be a shame to see this great park end up like the Naksan Park and temple located nearby that received heavy forest fire damage due to probably someone throwing a cigarette butt out of their car.

Soraksan Mountain in the background ringed with clouds.

However, once I proceeded up the trail I found out the awareness campaign has had little effect. About an hour and half into the hike I reached Sorak Falls. At the falls I found evidence that some hikers had camped at the falls the night before even though the trail was supposed to be closed until opening on Saturday morning. They left trash, two soju bottles, and cigarette butts everywhere. I saw one area where you can tell somebody’s batteries died so they threw the old batteries on the ground and then the packaging for the new batteries was tossed right next to it. What lazy pieces of crap would just throw stuff like this on the ground in Korea’s most beautiful park?

Unfortunately many people in Korea do just what these campers did every day in Korea’s parks. This is what frustrates me the most about Koreans. Pack up the trash you take into the park! Don’t leave it on the ground for someone else to pick up! I couldn’t tell you how much trash I have picked up in Korea’s parks but I was on a 15km hike and didn’t have enough room in my bag or time in the day to pick up all the trash laying around like I usually try and do.

The view from Daecheong Peak.

Anyway I proceeded up the trail and an hour and a half later I reached Daecheong Peak which stands at an elevation of 1708 meters and is the third highest mountain in Korea. The view was great, you can see all areas of the park, plus Sokcho, Yangyang, and other areas along the East Coast. There was still some fog covering some areas but all in all a great view.

Marker on top of Soraksan Mountain.

On the top of the mountain I ran into a group of about 15 hikers who were very friendly and offered me some kimbab and oranges to eat with them. They were surprised to see a foreigner especially a GI up here on the mountain. They were even further surprised that I could speak some very basic Korean. These hikers were on a company bonding trip to the park. These types of trips are common in Korea. They were all employees of some pharmaceutical company in Ansan. They ranged in age from the late 20’s to 50’s. What was surprising was that the top manager on this bonding trip was a guy that was only 29 years old and was younger than 2/3 of his employees. This is an odd thing in Korea.

Descending from the summit towards a cabin that hikers can pay to sleep in overnight.

View looking towards the summit with the cabin in the foreground.

The hikers huddled around me and led by the top manager they gave me the usual interogation one receives when first meeting Koreans. How old are you? Are you married? Do you have a baby? Where are you from? How much do you make? Etc. Etc. I then asked the manager what time they left to reach the summit since they beat me here and I saw nobody else hiking up the trail. He told me they camped at the Sorak Falls and headed up from there. Aha! I found my litter bugs! He then said that they were going to camp at another location at the park Saturday night no doubt to litter that area too before heading down the mountain Sunday to go home to Ansan. Then one of the guys in the group threw the orange peels on the ground. I picked them up and put them in a plastic bag I had in my pack. He asked why I was picking up the orange peels. I told them that it is not right to litter a national park. Then I brought up the fact about all the trash at Sorak Falls. They said it was there before they ever got there, but they were clearly embarrassed and soon left. I think it is safe to say I didn’t win in friends in Ansan on this trip but maybe they will think twice before leaving their trash lying around on the mountain that night.

I then proceeded down the peak, but before I left a group of ajummas came up the mountain wearing those huge visors that look like something you would see at a Donald Duck convention. Anyway the wind suddenly picked up and blew their visors off and they went flying off the side of the mountain. I think that is a sign that mother nature doesn’t like those visors either.

Trail descending down the mountain towards the east.

Anyway I went past Dinosaur Ridge down into the beautiful Cheongbuldong Valley. In the valley you begin to see more of your day trippers dressed in their hiking finest. People wearing the funny socks, expensive hiking suits, rucksacks with every accessory imaginable attached to it. One guy I saw had an ice pick! Another guy had snow cleats. There is no snow left on that mountain.

Cheonbuldong Valley in Outer Soraksan National Park.

However, many of the day trippers were very nice and friendly when I stopped at the mountain huts to sit down and drink some water before moving on. Some of them were amazed that I was hiking from Osaek to Sorak-dong in one day with such a small backpack. If I was wearing as much crap as some of those people were I probably couldn’t make it in one day.

Anyway I did meet a really nice ajushi who was about 60 years old. He offered me some tomatoes and we talked for a little while. He gave me the usual interogation and then told me that he was from Pocheon which is a city here in the 2ID area I know well, he was also retired from a semiconductor company, and was taking his grandson who was the over weight teenager with him on a hike of Soraksan. This was the first time he had met a GI before even though he lives in the 2ID area. He always just saw us driving by in our tanks and trucks all the time.

He then asked me if I liked Bush or Clinton better. I told him I liked Bush and he said he liked Clinton. He told me Clinton didn’t want war with North Korea and Bush does. Ironically Clinton was actually prepared to go to war with North Korea in 1994 when Jimmy Carter without White House permission went to Pyongyang and negotiated a settlement that Pyongyang would never live up to but got plenty of free booty anyway.

I told him Bush doesn’t want war in Korea especially with so much of the military tied up in Iraq, but he doesn’t want to give free stuff to Kim Jong Il either. I told him I don’t want to see my tax money going to Kim Jong Il either. If South Korea wants to give him free money that is there choice. He then asked me about the Osan Security Squadron Scandal. I told him that 1LT involved will more than likely go to jail. He thought he should be tried in a Korean court. He was on duty during the offenses so under the SOFA he will be tried in a military court. He didn’t like that so we agreed to disagree.

However, it is embarrassing to have to defend the military here all the time when I get quized by Koreans I meet due to the yearly incident that seems to arise here. 3 years ago was the armored vehicle accident, 2 years ago we had the drunk driving staff sergeant that killed a Korean woman, then last year we had the Shinchon Chain Saw Massacre, and now this year we have the Osan Scandal. Maybe I should start quizing every Korean I see about what they think about the ROK Army’s scandals?

Chosen Era Calligraphy Carved in the Rock at Biseondae.

I hiked a while with him and he moved really fast for being an older ajushi. His grandson started to fall behind. I started to slow down but the ajushi kept going and said his grandson needed to lose weight. We then passed a group of hikers who were having a picnic on a rock in the creek. The ajushi stopped and yelled at them because they were not supposed to picnic because the picnickers leave trash plus they were smoking in the park. I was beginning to really like this guy even if he is a Clinton fan. Maybe there is hope to protect the environment here after all. We reached Biseondae mountain hut and parted from there because he told me his grandson wanted to watch the women there. I’m sure he probably wanted to check them out too.

Biseondae is only a 2km walk from the park entrance so here you have all the Seoul weekenders. The place was packed with Kangnam beauties in high heels and designer dresses with their equally dressed up boyfriends. I couldn’t tell who wore more makeup the girls or the guys. Was I in the wilderness or at the club? We just needed some techno tunes and a dance floor.

I quickly made my way out of there and had a heck of a scare when I nearly stepped on a snake. Yes that is right a snake! Korea does in fact have snakes. It was sitting in the path warming itself in the sun. It was about 10 inches long and a greenish color. I remember hearing before that the small snakes in Korea are poisonous but I don’t know. So I quickly jumped back and skirted that area since I didn’t want to mess with him. I he slithered off before I could unpack my camera. I can’t stand snakes.

Wore out I finally made it to Sorak-dong at about 1PM and linked up with my wife. I covered approximately 15km of mountain trails in 8.5 hours, met lots of people along the way, saw some ugly visors get blown of the mountain, got to see everyone dressed in their expensive hiking outfits, saw my first snake in Korea, plus got to laugh at all the dressed of metrosexuals. If that isn’t a fun day I don’t know what is.

However, I didn’t see any other fellow foreigners the whole day until I got to the Sorak-dong area where there was many foreigners. If you are going to the park the Sorak-dong area provides some nice scenery but it is overly crowded and you should really hike into the back country to get a real appreciation of Soraksan. If you are planning a trip to Soraksan and need some advice let me know. I know the mountain really well and should be able to make you an itinerary to fit your time and fitness level. More foreigners should try to get into the back country it really is worth it.

I finally escaped Ullong-do Island today after spending four extra days on the island waiting for a boat to show up due to poor weather. After a while I was becoming convinced this was some kind of conspiracy to keep me on the island to teach at the island’s one English hagwon or something.

Dodong is the largest city on Ulleung-do, and where the ferry docks at. 

However, I did escape today but it was by no means uneventful. The day prior the clerk at the boat terminal told me to show up 30 minutes early for the boat to make sure I get on since I really wanted to get off the island. So I show up early and waited in line with a bunch of other people waiting to board the boat.

Boat that travels to and from Ulleungdo-do Island.

People began to board the boat at the designated time and the line was moving along nice and orderly. Then a mob of about 50 old ajummas who showed up at the last minute ran down to the pier and just bum rushed the nice orderly line we had going to board the boat. Mass chaos ensued because of this mass wave of line cutting ajummas. The line fell apart and everybody just started pushing and shoving to get on the boat like some kind of rugby match.

Waiting in line to board the boat off of Ulleung-do.

Needless to say I got pushed towards the back not because I can’t play rugby but because I will not bring myself to act the way these people were behaving. I slowly worked my way forward and I talked to one of the five policemen who were just standing there doing nothing. If you are wondering why the policemen aren’t doing anything about the chaos it could be because of the Confucian culture in Korea where they differ to somebody senior to them like 50 some odd line cutting ajummas. So I complained to him about the chaos and all he did was ask to see my passport and check my bags and treated me like I was the one causing trouble here, completely oblivious to the chaos around him. Needless to say more people just cut in front of me.

After my interrogation was complete and the policeman was convinced he allowed me to advance forward. By this time I’m told they overbooked the boat and there are no seats left even though the ticket I have has a seat number on it. I’m really pissed off now and complain to one of the boat workers. He leaves comes back and was able to get me on the boat. I thanked the guy who was really helpful.

So finally I am on my way.  I’m thinking great I can sit back get some sleep and I’ll be back on the main land in no time. How wrong I was. The sea was really rough due to poor weather again so the boat bounced around alot. Within 15 minutes of leaving people were puking. So for over 3 hours I had to listen to people puke up all the soju they drank the night before. The smell was even worse. There was old ajushis drinking soju on the boat and then they would puke it up 30 minutes later. Plus with all the drunk people on the boat they would get into drunken arguements, scream and yell, and then some of them would begin to break out into impromptu karaoke performances. It was the most miserable ride I have ever taken here in Korea.

Leaving Ulleung-do island.

Finally the boat arrives at Mukho harbor and I just wait for everyone to get off the boat before I depart because I don’t want to participate in the mass pushing contest to exit the boat. I just don’t understand why the boat company doesn’t have an orderly system of having passengers exit the boat? It might because of the whole Confucian thing again. You have young people working on the boat and they don’t feel comfortable bossing around all the older ajushis and ajummas and the ajushis and ajummas know it, so mass chaos ensues.

I finally get off the boat and I’m thinking I’m home free, but I get grabbed by the customs agent and interrogated once again to make sure I’m not a terrorist. I guess they just weren’t buying my story that I am an American soldier who just read about Ulleong-do in my Lonely Planet travel guide and took some time off to go check it out because I thought it would be a pretty cool place to go and see. I suppose they thought such a story was pretty suspicious and I was obviously up to something sinister so they checked my back pack yet again. Still no bomb in it. The whole interogation thing wouldn’t be so bad if it wasn’t for the fact that I am the only one getting interogatted. How many American terrorists have struck Korea compared to North Korean terrorists? I’m know I don’t look like a North Korean but everyone else on the boat did yet none of them was interogatted. I’ll blame it all on that damn Confucious guy again.

Well I finally pass customs and I just want to go to the bathroom. I see the bathroom and head towards it but I’m beaten to it by the huge mob ajummas again. The mob was so huge it blocked the entrance to the male latrine. So I had to push my way through this pile of humanity because I really needed to piss. I eventually made it through and into the latrine where the ajushis were waiting in an orderly line. For whatever reason it seems ajushis seem to stay in line fairly well until all the ajummas come and then it is every man for themselves and mass chaos from there.

Anyway, you have no idea how happy I was to get to the bus station and get a bus back to Seoul. I really like Ullong-do because it is an incredible place but I never ever want to go through the hell I went through first all getting there and then even worse getting back.

What is it with the line cutting in Korea? I have had people cut in front me at Burger King and E-Mart before but that didn’t bother me as much as today when about 50 of them cut into the line causing the mass chaos at the pier. What if 50 American soldiers bum rushed the line and started pushing people around? It would be on the front of the paper. When Koreans travel abroad in their tour groups do they act like this? I haven’t even mentioned the other rude things that happened to me earlier in my trip to Ulleong-do. If they do act like this I’m sure it creates a very negative image of Koreans abroad.

Anyway I will post more about my adventure to Ullong-do in the coming days. Overall it really was a great trip in spite of all the crazy weather and even crazier ajummas.

Dodong village on Ulleung-do Island from above the city.

Last weekend I took a hike up Pukhansan Mountain to the Northwest of Seoul. I entered this National Park from the western side. Entering the park from this side is really picturesque because the view of the peaks from here is really stunning. Parking at the park costs 1000 won an hour which is quite expensive if plan on spending a full day here. Mass transit may be a better option for you. Entrance to the park was only 2400 won.

Bordering the front gate of the park are many hiking stores, convenience stores, and restaurants. The first hiking store booth right next to the parking lot there is an old odashi that speaks English who will joke around with you. He is really funny and will give you a foreigner discount because he sees so few foreigners come to the park. In fact that day I saw only two other foreigners on the mountain. It is to bad because the park is such an easily accessible place that will give you a much different view of Korea besides high rise buildings and the traffic jams people are accustomed to in Seoul.

The park features numerous trails and you can buy a map from the funny odashi at his hiking booth. You have the choice to go up numerous peaks which all go from 700 to over 800 meters high. I chose to climbs the highest peak, Baekundae peak which is 834 meters high. Starting up the trail you will follow a beautiful creek that winds up the side of the mountain. The creek was filled with rushing water and small swimming holes that the locals were using to swim in. Also towards the bottom of the mountain the creek is packed with families having picnics. The further up the trail you go the less the people.

There are also numerous Buddhist temples to be explored on the mountain. One particular temple you can see from the trail is one that has a stunning huge rock carved buddha that must be 30 feet tall. Well up the trail I was hiking on I passed by a Buddhist temple. What was amusing about this temple was that it had a satellite TV dish in front of it. It appears that the modern world is now even changing the way the Buddhists monks live. What was also funny was that their was a pay telephone outside of the temple also. Soon enough I will probably see the monks carrying cell phones with Hello Kitty stickers on them.

Once the trail broke away from the creek it became really steep and many areas had installed cables to help climb up the rocks with. In these areas with the installed cables the trail becomes bottle necked with hikers who are going up and down trying to use the same cable. So it will take some time to work your way up these areas.

As I traveled along the route I over heard some hikers talking about somebody who was threatening to jump off the mountain. Further up the trail I saw a crowd of hikers standing around looking down the side of a cliff. Apparently the guy decided to jump off the cliff. The park rescue personnel were already down there trying to treat the guy and apparently he was barely alive and they brought a stretcher down and tied ropes to it to get it pulled up the cliff. The rescue personnel recruited me to help pull the stretcher up the cliff. By the time we had pulled the strecher up the cliff the person had died. When we got him pulled up he was really messed up so it wasn’t suprising that he had died. What I found interesting was that nobody seemed to be really shocked about this guy killing himself. Everyone was real nonchalant about it. In Korea suicide is an accepted practice for business, financial, and personal failures that disgrace you and your family. In Korea many government officials including the Pusan mayor have taken their own lives. Many businessmen have jumped from buildings or from bridges over the Han River to kill themselves. Students even kill themselves for failing college entrance exams. In my unit one year ago before I got here my unit’s senior KATUSA killed himself because he got dumped by his girlfriend because he had been away from home so long serving his military commitment. These are definitely some stressed out people over here. Don’t kill yourself, if you have to move to the other side of the peninsula or something.

After leaving that scene I continued up the mountain. After some very steep hiking I finally reached the bottom granite face of Baekundae peak. Here the trail was extremely bottle necked with hikers. It took some time to work my way through all the hikers. It was extremely crowded. At the summit of the mountain there is a Korean flag in place at the observation point.

Standing on the summit provides a great view of Seoul and the entire Kimpo peninsula. This day was a bit hazy so I couldn’t see North Korea. But on a clear day you could definitely see North Korea from here. On the summit I got talking to some ajushis who were amazed I can speak some Korean. It is bad enough I was getting treated like a zoo animal up there because I was the only foreigner on the mountain but the zoo animal could also speak some Korean. It was like they had just had a horse speak to them. Now I know how Mr. Ed felt.

The ajushis commented that they could not believe I was so tall and not fat. I guess every tall foreigner in Korea is supposed to be fat. I better work on my beer gut. The ajushi than asked me if I was an English teacher and where I was from. When I told him I was an American soldier you could visibly tell he and his friends were amazed. I guess I didn’t live up to the stereotype that many Koreans have of us being drunk all the time, getting in fights, and looking for prostitutes. This stereotype actually fits Korean males better than it does American soldiers.

However this stereotype helps ajushi not feel so bad about his own misbehavior when he can say the Americans are doing the same thing. The real stereotype of an American soldier in Korea is one who works his ass off all day, on vehicles, sweeping the motorpool, and mowing grass when he isn’t in the field. The times he has off, he is sitting in his room playing his Playstation for endless hours and drinking beer with his friends in the barracks.  People fail to realize how few soldiers actually spend all their time in the ville getting drunk and being stupid.

The many American soldiers here are barracks rats just counting down their days. But every year the handful of soldiers that do get in trouble in Korea always get made up by the media to represent all 37,000 soldiers here. However after telling them I was a soldier the ajushis quit talking with me and left. I told a friend of mine about this and he told me I should just say I am an English teacher here from Canada. I will never do that because I’m sure Canadian English teachers wouldn’t appreciate that but why should I not be proud of what I represent? The American Army has freed more people and done more good than any other Army in world history. Name one army that has done more good for the world than the American military. If ajushi has a problem with it, it is his problem not mine.

Anyway I proceeded back down the mountain. Going down the mountain was really quick. I got up the mountain in 4 hours at a leisurely pace and made it down in 2 hours at a leisurely pace. I was definitely tired afterwards but it was a really good day. Great weather, beautiful scenery, and some weirdness with the guy killing himself. Just another typical day in Korea.